Evelyn was born in Kiev, Ukraine. She came to the United
States in 1990. After cooking a delicious meal for me and her daughter, Irene,
Evelyn and I sat down and talked about what, if any, were the differences
between Russian, Jewish and American food. Evelyn had some specific
distinctions. She said that she cooked in Russia because she had to eat, not
because it was a pleasurable experience.
In the Ukraine, she learned how to cook from magazines for
women, which gave her tips that she wouldn’t have otherwise learned. In her
words, Russian food is more about “how you perceive the eating”. In Kiev she
learned how to make fruit preserves and other foods in order to stock a pantry
for months if necessary. Ingredients were scarce and so there was no room for
waste. “You eat what’s available at the
time.” She says that if a friend knows about a store selling chicken then you go
to that store and buy and cook chicken. She also says that it’s about using all
your resources. If there’s half a lemon in the refrigerator “just throw it in
the compote.” It’s not a style, it’s a mentality.
In America on the other hand, Evelyn thinks there’s too much
waste, but that it’s fun to cook. It’s easy to procure a range of ingredients
and to try new things. She can’t pinpoint exactly what “American cooking” is,
but it’s definitely different, in that it’s not done in a manner meant to
preserve one’s life, but to enjoy it.
Like her daughter, Irene, Evelyn felt that Jewish food was
completely different, in that it’s “traditional” foods, very specific things
that are made on the holidays. It’s not “everyday” food. It’s gefilte fish, for
example. Other than holiday food, it was hard for Evelyn to decide what was “Jewish”.
She said that it was difficult because Jews lived throughout different
countries, all over the world, and that they were influenced by local
resources, cultures and climates. Sometimes Jews didn’t have choices and had to
eat pork in order to survive, something she doesn’t have to worry about here.
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